Museo Mandralisca, the art of a smile

The headquarters of a heritage that remains forever in the “memory” of the visitors

The second most famous smile in the world, after that of the Gioconda, is kept in the Museo Mandralisca of Cefalù. It is the “Portrait of an Unknown Sailor“ by Antonello da Messina, the subject of research and controversial opinions regarding the identity of the portrayed person. Another mystery surrounding this painting is its date. It is thought that the historical background puts it either in 1465 or between 1470 and 1472. A spontaneous smile, both mocking and complicit, stirred, over time, different reactions in those who came across it. Several times the painting was subjected to the restoration of the upper part of the face, just around the eyes: it is thought that the sneer of the unknown man annoyed somebody so much, that they removed his pupils.

Museo Mandralisca is famous all over the world: after the “Contest” between the smile of the Mona Lisa and that of the Unknown Sailor, New York Times wrote about the refined beauty of Antonello da Messina’s painting. When Michele Ciacciofera, a painter from Syracuse who is highly appreciated in France, was asked to be an impartial judge, this is what he said: “It is difficult, if not at all impossible, to judge and compare two works of art, especially if the paintings in question are two absolute masterpieces“.

The only museum of this Norman town boasts numerous artworks that Baron Enrico Pirajno of Mandralisca collected, over time, preserving them in his house. In fact, the Museum still preserves the atmosphere of a domestic environment, almost as if it was still possible to feel the presence of the aristocrat. Often identified as an interdisciplinary museum, it contains, in addition to the picture gallery, archaeological artefacts, a numismatic collection, and one of Europe’s richest collections of molluscs, as well as furniture and objects belonging to the Mandralisca family.

In 1890 the Mandralisca residence became home to the classical high school of Cefalù. For its inauguration, Carmine Papa, nicknamed the “digger-poet”, wrote a poem called “Pri l’apirtura di lu liceu Manniralisca” (For the opening of Mandralisca high school). In 1863, following the reorganisation of educational institutions carried by the Kingdom of Italy, the Baron’s concern was to include in his will the subjects and the teachers, with a precision, accuracy and style that perfectly identify as an aristocrat “of the past”. But the difficulty of managing a private structure led the Municipality of Cefalù to request the conversion into a state school.

An undisputed home of history and memories, the Museo Mandralisca of Cefalù embodies the beauty of the culture and the importance of empathy towards the observed objects. A place where you can admire unique pieces and works of art, but also a place of deeper emotions concealed in every corner of the property, jealously supervised by the owner of the house. An alternative way to admire the artistic heritage through the veiled influence of a discreet aristocrat who, over time, preserved the memory in the visitors of his beloved home.